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  • 首頁>古建風采>古村古鎮>詳情
    流坑村 “千古第一村”的歷史繁華
    2018-09-10 14:20:54 來源:古建中國  作者:佚名  責任編輯:王艷

    中國五千年的文明散落在民間的瑰寶真是太多了!在贛中南部一個群山環繞之中的樂安縣,有一個滿載千年文明的古村落——流坑村。這座始建于五代南唐昇元年間,興起于宋代,衰微于元代,繁榮于明代,敗落于晚清、民國的古村,全村統姓“董”,尊漢代大儒董仲舒為始祖。歷史上先后出了34名進士,兩名狀元,78名舉人,秀才不計其數。真可謂“百代不斬,千年不散”,被原國家文物局局長張文彬盛贊為“千古第一村”!

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    流坑村

      流坑村位于江西省樂安縣西南部,距縣城38公里,離所屬牛田鎮6公里。現有居民1200多戶,6000多人。總面積3.61平方公里,可耕地3572畝,山林53400畝。它地處群山環抱的山間盆地,這里鐘靈毓秀,自成天地。清澈的烏江水,自村南經村東,繞村北再向西北流去,會恩江水注入贛江,使得流坑村形成山環水抱之勢。

      據統計,江西省出過30名進士以上的村子,還有奉新縣的華林,吉安縣的秀川和南豐縣的曾家等。但是這幾個在歷史上曾經顯赫一時的村莊已無多少文物遺存。惟獨樂安的流坑,至今仍保存著明代建筑(含遺址)19處,清代建筑250多處。這些建筑形成了規模龐大的建筑群,類型齊全,布局合理,特色鮮明,內涵豐富,數以百計的屋宇,堂上有匾,門旁有聯,其中保存完好的匾額400余幅;大多數建筑物上都有雕刻、繪畫、書法等。其豐富的歷史文化遺存,就一個自然村來講,實屬罕見。

      一踏入流坑村,那縱橫交錯卻井然有序的街道,那些古色古香、造型各異的建筑,鱗次櫛比,雕梁畫棟,斗拱層疊,飛檐騰空,蔚為壯觀。明崇禎九年(1636)12月22日,大旅行家徐霞客慕名游覽了流坑村。他在《江右游記》中對流坑村景描述到:“其處闤闠縱橫,是為萬家之市,而董氏為巨姓,有五桂坊焉。”

      我們現在所看見的流坑村總體布局,是由明代中后期的董燧規劃整治的。它以人工挖掘的龍湖為界,全村分為東西兩部并以東部為主。東部房屋由南向北依次排開,七條橫巷貫道東西,一條縱巷穿行南北。各大巷還有若干與其垂直、交叉相通的小巷,宛若蛛網,以利連通。各巷道均以鵝卵石鋪路,斑駁凹凸,巷寬2——3.2米,并有0.3至0.4米寬的排水溝與之平行,全村的天然雨水和生活用水,通過這條條水溝匯入龍湖,注入烏江。幾百年前,這種道路和排水系統設計的科學性,至今令人贊嘆不止!七條縱巷的東端,均建有高數丈、磚木結構的碉樓,用以了望敵情、水情、火情等;而巷之西端,設有涼亭,為村民們飯后茶余的休閑場所。

    流坑村

    流坑村贛式古民居

      龍湖之西,地勢呈斜坡狀,沿湖建有一條南北向的街巷,名朝朝街,這里是流坑村的集市、貿易之地。街之北端為棋盤街,南北兩側相對而立著五桂坊和錦衣坊,西側高處則聳立著名聞遐邇的狀元樓。該樓始建于南宋,是為本村的恩科狀元董德元所建,清咸豐十年重修,是全村最高的標志性建筑。樓臺正中門楣上的匾額已是班駁無色,但是由與董德元同科進士,后為著名大理學家的朱熹所書的“狀元樓”三字仍清晰入目。

      村中有一條寬僅尺余的小巷——“明清巷”,從北往南看,左邊是明代建筑,右邊是清代民居,當地人稱之為“時光隧道”,也叫“一巷跨兩朝”。

      流坑的住宅建筑,青磚灰瓦,樸實素雅。高峻的馬頭墻,仰天昂起,兼防風防火之用。它較之一般的古民居顯得更加高大闊朗,一進門是一方天井,上露天光,廳堂的采光全賴于此。下為石砌的泄池,如遇雨天,天井四周的檐水如四掛珠簾落入池中而不會四溢。當地人稱之為“四水歸堂”。它的廳堂建筑為“品”字形,多以雕花門窗隔斷的兩側廂房在前,主廳在后,是其明顯特征。墻屋內均為杉木結構,,多為三進兩層,上層藏物,下層住人。屋中央為廳堂,左右為臥室。廳堂前的照壁,鑲嵌精工繪制著人物、鳥獸、花草的磚雕。房屋的門楣、屋檐多有彩繪雕刻;屋內墻壁、窗欞、柱礎、楞頭、雀替、檔板、梁棚等均刻有龍頭、神鹿、鳳凰、人物故事、花卉等圖案,精雕細琢,獨巨匠心,其藝術水平之高,令人嘆為觀止。至于各式建筑及建筑物上的雕刻、繪畫、書法等,遍布全村,隨處可見,令人目不暇接,美不勝收。

      董燧故居,雖經歷了400多年的風風雨雨,前廳卻依然保持著明代風貌。一對造于明嘉靖年間的園雕紅石獅蹲立在大門兩側,左邊雄獅雙耳聳立,二目圓睜,張牙露嘴,威不可犯;右邊的雌獅雙耳后披,腦門突出,鼻大口張,左前肢蹬地,右前肢弄球,兩肢之間坐一幼獅,正朝前觀望,一大一小,構思巧妙,雌獅威嚴可敬,幼獅活潑可愛。門楣上懸有“理學名家”木匾,這塊匾以石膏作底,陽文黑字,字體圓渾古樸,乃系明代著名理學家、南京吏部尚書曾同亨所書。昔日兩旁還掛有曾同亨題書“理學常存德義門,名家自有兒孫福”楹聯一幅,于中被燒掉了。兩邊掛楹聯的地方,現隱約可見“颯爽英姿五尺槍”的詩句。現今的主人董仁貴對我們說,時,我把“理學名家”的匾翻過來寫上了“為革命種地”方才保住的。對面那個大照壁上由明嘉靖狀元羅洪先攥寫有“高明廣大”的磚雕,也被我用石灰糊上寫了“破舊立新”。那對石獅子他們也要打掉,已經用鋼釬把腿撬壞了,現用石灰補上的。因我是革命群眾,1956年去過北京,說天安門前也有石獅子,北京的都沒有砸,憑什么砸我家的?這是好不容易才保下來的啊!

    流坑村

    流坑村村內建筑一角·獅子

      縱觀流坑一千余年的發展歷史,大致可分為前后兩個部分,前五百年走的是亦耕亦讀的道路,后五百年走的是亦耕亦讀、亦工亦商的道路。它的發展史,始終都圍繞著一個“讀”字。而這個“讀”字在它前五百年的發展中更是起著至關重要的作用,為流坑的繁榮昌盛打下了堅實的基礎。

      董氏第三代傳人董文廣,這個在流坑歷史上第一位取得功名的人物,以其獨到的眼光,抓住北宋重文輕武,大開科舉廣取文士之機,傾家族之財大興教育,創辦學館,廣納英才,啟沃子侄,鼓勵他們走學而優則仕的道路。皇天不負有心人,宋真宗大中祥符七年(1014),其侄滋、湘、淵、淳兄弟四人同年舉于鄉;次年董淳進士及第,并官至尚書,顯赫一時。宋仁宗年間(1034),洙、汀、儀、師德、師道等父子叔侄五人同登進士第,五子聯科,時號“五桂”,士林一時傳為佳話。是科之后,董氏解試四舉、五舉和七子聯科的盛事時有發生,登進士科者亦代不乏人。宋元明三朝,流坑人中進士者32人,而科名最高、仕宦最尊的是董德元。晚年得志的他于宋紹興18年(1147)53歲時廷試第一,因有官故,被點為恩榜狀元。以后春風得意,任吏部尚書,拜參知政事,封廬陵開國子。因其故,始祖董合追封為大司徒,二世組董楨為大司空,曾祖父董倚加贈奉儀郎、騎都尉、太保,祖父董蒙休為太子太傅,父董獎為少師。真是光宗耀組,風光之極矣。

      漫步在流坑村卵石小道上的人們,至今難以想象地處偏遠的它曾經是如何的發達和輝煌。也許,正因為它地處偏遠,才使這座塵封的古代文明博物館得以保存下來。

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