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  • 首頁>古建風采>古村古鎮>詳情
    崇仁古鎮 深藏在紹興千嵊的千年古鎮
    2018-09-07 15:57:24 來源:古建中國  作者:佚名  責任編輯:王艷

    說到江南古鎮,便會讓人不由自主地想起近年來名聲大噪的烏鎮、西塘……然而去過崇仁古鎮后,卻見識到了一份難得的幽靜和質樸。她沒有烏鎮的規矩,也沒有西塘的俗囂,但古老純粹的崇仁,卻給人一種真實的靜美和觸摸到歷史的厚重。

    崇仁古鎮

    崇仁古鎮

      崇仁原名杏花村,北宋時,受皇帝敕封的義門裘氏從婺州分遷此地。裘氏以崇尚仁義為本,故名其地為崇仁。但從古村西北路邊“方井”旁一石碑刻著“赤烏二年”(239)字樣來看,早在三國吳時這里已有先民居住。民國時期,崇仁古鎮又被劃分為十個村莊,分別以數字的一至十予以命名。

      崇仁至今保留著龐大的古建筑群,歷經千年而風貌依舊。古建筑連片成群,具有宋朝遺風、明清特色,廟宇、祠堂、古戲臺、民居、牌坊、藥鋪、店房、橋梁、池塘、水井一應俱全。以玉山公祠為中心,保存完整的老臺門就有100余座,臺門之間用跨街樓鉤連,既珠聯璧合,又獨立成章,體現了先人“分戶合族、聚只一家”的遺風。

    崇仁古鎮

    崇仁古鎮古建筑群

      古鎮臺門的格局大小不一。孤立地看,有些大臺門建筑恢宏,體現出“庭院深深深幾許”的氣勢,頗有山西“王家大院”“喬家大院”的風范;有些小臺門則建筑簡陋,其格局類如北京的四合院。山西大院和北京四合院關起門來,就是一個“獨立王國”,與鄰家可以“雞犬之聲相聞,老死不相往來”;崇仁臺門則不然,戶與戶之間雖有圍墻相隔,但又有門洞相通、走廊相連,屬于“隔而不隔”的建制,而其中最為著名的則要數玉山公祠和五聯臺門了。

      玉山公祠建于清乾隆五十六年(1791),供祭崇仁裘氏第19世祖玉山公。祠堂坐北朝南,主體建筑依縱軸線布局,自南而北為照壁、門廳、戲臺、正廳和后廳,兩側建有廂房,占地面積1012平方米。公祠內的木雕、石雕、磚雕工藝精湛,雕刻內容有花鳥蟲魚、吉祥動物、人物山水、傳奇故事、神話仙跡……件數之多,數嵊州市宗祠之最,堪稱一絕。這從玉山公祠后天井中的兩組牛腿便可見一斑——東邊一組是“司馬光砸缸”“人狐鼠相處”“濟公濟貧”“愚公移山”“三娘教子” “真假猴王”,西側一組為“孝”“義”“勤”“儉”“潑水浮球”“薛平貴回窯”等雕刻,惟妙惟肖,筆簡意賅:一個官太太拿著一把竹絲很茬的掃把掃地的情景,一個“儉”字躍然而出;“真假猴王”則告知人們要生就火眼金睛,去辨別生活中的真假是非;“人狐鼠相處”則寄托著人類與動物和諧相處的美好愿景。

      公祠門廳前的道地上還有一只回頭鹿,在早晨熹微的天光中,整頭鹿光亮潤澤,一只眼睛睜得溜圓,“回眸”之狀活靈活現,而待日出就難覓其影。這是為何?原來,這是建設者的匠心獨運:鋪設時,先將所用青石用鹽鹵浸過,砌好后又以缸爿勾勒出鹿之輪廓,如此一來,雖歷經千年,此鹿仍栩栩如生,為古建筑平添一景。

    崇仁古鎮

    古戲臺

      正中央的天井處,是崇仁祠廟中最精致的古戲臺,始建于清嘉慶十年,由4根上圓下方的石柱和粗大的梁枋構筑而成,內置八角形藻井,上層八仙圖,下層施斗拱,雕刻精美,設計獨具匠心,堪稱江南古戲臺的典范,現為省級文物保護單位。值得一提的是,在民國時期,玉山公祠戲臺曾沖破幾千年來女子不得登臺演戲的封建禁忌,上演了由傅全香主演的《夜半鐘聲》,推動了女子越劇在民間的發展步伐。此后,著名越劇藝人袁雪芬、周寶奎、筱丹桂、張茵等都曾在此登臺演出。

      經由玉山公祠西側一條幽深的鵝卵石巷道,就到了五聯臺門的核心——敬承書房。書房由兩座跨街樓與老屋臺門相接,學子們可以足不出戶上學、下學,免遭風霜雨雪之苦。以此為中心,大夫弟臺門、老屋臺門、樵溪臺門、翰平臺門、云和臺門環列四周。這是一組清一色的青磚白墻硬山頂建筑。臺門內部用材精良,磚、木、石雕精細生動。各臺門都獨立成院,自立門戶,而底層又設邊門,戶戶相通。樓上則用跨街樓與相鄰的臺門隔巷相連,從而成為一個自上而下互相通聯的民居群落,總面積達6600平方米。

      五聯臺門是裘氏義門“分戶合族、聚只一家”的治家準則,以及耕讀傳家的文化傳統在建筑形態上的完美體現,也是江南民居建筑的典范,為清中后期的建筑,是玉山公為5個兒子建造的。

      除了玉山公祠和五聯臺門,后門塘民居則是崇仁臺門另一個集中地。古時的崇仁曾流傳有這樣的民諺:打架驗傷井頭房、穿靴戴頂后門塘、挑腳掮樹上二房,說的就是后門塘一帶的繁華。這些臺門布局大致相同,前為臺門,然后是天井、堂屋、側廂、座樓,組成一個獨立的宅院,或以姓氏命名,或以仕進和官職為號,大大地豐富著崇仁古民居故事的內涵。

      除臺門之外,崇仁還有老家廟和偉鎮廟等祠堂和寺廟建筑,都完好地保存了下來。“昔人已乘黃鶴去,此處空留黃鶴樓”,但當歲月流逝,建筑承載的使用功能逐漸衰退之后,另一種更具生命力的作為文化傳承和見證者的使命便油然而生。為了更好地保護崇仁的古老建筑,浙江省古建筑設計院曾專門編制《崇仁古鎮保護規劃總規及詳規》,完成了對崇仁古鎮現有154個臺門的建檔立冊工作,并成立了古鎮旅游開發管理處,對崇仁的古建筑進行保護。

      崇仁古鎮選址于山陰水陽,依山傍水。街道呈不規則的方格網狀格局,以直街和橫街組成“一縱一橫”的十字骨架,并由此形成主街、支路、小巷、備弄的四級道路體系,實現了路路相通,巷巷相連,在舒適中彰顯仁義,在建筑中凸顯人文關懷的特色。在古巷里行走,可以驚奇地發現,凡轉角處的墻角都呈柔和的圓弧形。這些用在墻角的建材多用整塊青石,有一人多高,十分利于行人,處處彰顯著人性化的設計。

    崇仁古鎮

    崇仁古鎮古井

      崇仁同時還是一個井的世界,有遍布街巷和院落的古井多達51口,成為了古鎮一道獨特的風景。這些古井高出地面部分多用整塊青石鏤空作口,井邊配有井槽、井臼,井面有一道道被井繩磨出的凹痕,可以想見當時井邊熱鬧和諧的場景。

      一井一故事,靜靜講述著崇仁與水的親切淵源。上方井前的“赤烏二年”字樣,講述著他滋養古鎮千年的功績;蟹眼井下傳說埋有石磨,那是因為那里鎮壓著一條蛟龍,如此才能讓蛟龍溫順地吐露水源,養育崇仁的一方百姓;還有依附在“廉井”“讓井”“奇異井”身上的故事更讓人為之著迷。玉山公祠后面的“讓井”,有一段被歲月塵封的軼事:古時有戶裘姓人家建房時,這口露天井要被圍進屋里,鄰居因用水不便而起糾紛。這戶裘姓遂將屋基退進數米,讓出水井,方便村民用水。這一“讓”,讓出了襟懷,讓出了和諧,也讓出了“崇尚仁義”的古鎮精神之所在。

      交通:

      公交:在嵊州客運西站乘坐到崇仁鎮的大巴車,票價8元,大約一刻鐘一班。

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